My first encounter with wild mushrooms from the Sierra Norte was at Oaxaca City's Central de Abastos market. A vendor from the mountainous region had descended to the sprawling valley market with some exceptionally tasty specimens.

Local guide Maria Luisa Martinez hands off a mushroom to a group member. Photo by Shannon Young.

So, my mouth watered when I saw a poster advertising the annual Mushroom Festival in Cuajimoloyas. The festival is organized by the Pueblos Manucomunados, a network of mountain villages promoting development and education projects in this indigenous Zapotec region. The first day of the weekend-long event concentrated on foraging for mushrooms in the pine forest. Day two featured conferences and cooking lessons. The latter showcased creative fusions of mushrooms with traditional Mexican dishes. For example, ceviche made with oyster mushrooms instead of fresh fish. Tamales stuffed with shiitakes instead of chicken. Little did I know some of Mexico's renowned chefs were also in attendance.

The Mushroom Festival occurred just days ahead of a major culinary arts festival in Oaxaca City. Chef Itzel Lopez of Oaxaca's Los Danzantes restaurant says several Mexico City chefs traveled to the festival in Cuajimoloyas to "check out what mushrooms they had, what could be made with them, and to encourage their use."

Los Danzantes itself features special dishes during the rainy season made with wild mushrooms from the Sierra Norte. Lopez says the process behind serving up wild mushrooms — from the harvesting to the preparation — gives a unique gourmet touch, especially when the mushrooms are found only in Oaxaca.

Mushrooms ... people seem to either love 'em or hate 'em. How about you? Do you have any experience picking and enjoying wild mushrooms?

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